New York's Less Touristy Hamptons Alternative Pairs Quiet Beaches With Old-Money And Charm

The East Coast elite have long mastered the art of summering — escaping the city during warmer months. For those with the means, the default has often been to spend a summer by the sea, particularly around the Hamptons, just a couple of hours' drive from Manhattan. The Hamptons have built a legacy on beachside charm and exclusivity (some even claim it a surf mecca thanks to sandy beaches with consistent waves), but in recent years, its popularity has been matched with hordes of tourists and unaffordable prices. Thankfully, there are other options. New York's Fishers Island is a small 9-mile stretch in Southold, Suffolk County, that is only accessible to the public by ferry from the Connecticut coastline, not far from the unspoiled Rhode Island coast. With only 250 full-time residents, the island has remained relatively under the radar, offering a peaceful alternative to the nearby Hamptons.

Inhabited by Indigenous peoples long before it appeared on a European map, Fishers Island was first visited by a Dutchman in 1614. It was settled in the 1640s by the Winthrop family. For six generations, the island remained the family's private estate. Only in 1871 was the land divided into lots and sold as an exclusive seaside resort. In the early 20th century, it thrived as a tourist hub, with three hotels that could accommodate up to 500 guests. In 1929, the resort fell victim to the Great Depression, and the local tourist trade collapsed. Today, the island remains happily cut off from modern tourism.

Unlike Montauk's sandy streets and Long Island's flashy restaurants, Fishers Island still feels like it did 100 years ago. Aside from one grocery store, a pub, and a handful of gift stores, there are few establishments on the island. 

If you're lucky enough to land a day on Fishers Island, you're in for a relaxed and unpretentious experience. Start your morning with a walk through the island's well-preserved grasslands or along the trails that wind around old-money estates. With over 90 bird species breeding here, it's an excellent spot for birdwatchers. Alternatively, you could rent a bike from the Bike Shop and cycle along the 4.2-mile-long Fishers Island Recreational Path, a trail maintained for non-motorized recreation. 

If you're not fortunate enough to have access to a private beach, head to one of the island's two public beaches: Dock Beach or South Beach. Dock Beach is family-friendly, with shallow, calm water, a floating swim dock, and lifeguards on duty during the summer. Meanwhile, South Beach offers picturesque solitude. Beyond the sand, the surrounding waters are home to flourishing eelgrass that houses shellfish. This massive marine area, which stretches 194 acres around the island, is recognized as a New York State Significant Coastal Fish and Wildlife Habitat.

In the evening, make your way to The Pequot Inn, the island's one and only restaurant/bar, for a low-key drink surrounded by locals and longtime summer renters. Don't expect much in the way of a party scene. Cate Brown from the Wall Street Journal mentions that "socializing largely revolves around sailing, golf and tennis, and the island has two exclusive country clubs with yearslong waiting lists, according to several members." The scene is one where old-money families retreat for complete privacy. A lack of facilities works in the island's favor, deterring the seasonal tourists who have made places like the Hamptons so crowded.

Thanks to an absence of hotels, the island's population grows to just over 2,000 in the peak summer holiday season. The only people on the island are homeowners, house guests, and renters. Across the entire island, there are only around 650 homes, just a handful of which are for sale at any given time.

What makes Fishers Island really appealing is that owning property here is not only more exclusive but also more affordable than the Hamptons. Real estate brokers say prices for a basic home here start at around $400,000 to $700,000, far below what you would pay for an equivalent property in the Hamptons. One of the most expensive homes on Fishers Island sold for $6.3 million in 2022, which is still relatively low compared with a Hamptons home that sold for $84.5 million in the same year.

Another reason tourism has remained in check is the challenge of simply getting to the island. The only way to reach Fishers Island is by ferry or private plane. From Manhattan, you'll need to drive 125 miles (about two hours and twenty minutes) to New London, Connecticut, where you can catch a 45-minute ferry across Fishers Island Sound to the island. The Fishers Island Ferry costs $30 per person roundtrip, and $70 with a vehicle. It departs several times per day in the summer. For those further away, there are options to charter a plane and land directly on the island, thanks to an old U.S. Army airstrip from World War II.