Situated Between Nice And Marseille Is France's Sun-Drenched Town With Flamingos And Golden Beaches

Halfway along the stunning coastline that connects France's oldest and second-largest city, Marseille, to glitzy Nice is the sun-drenched city of Hyères. This charming place has more than its coveted location along the French Riviera going for it — in fact, its golden beaches are only the tip of the iceberg. Hyères boasts archaeological sites, a rich contemporary art scene, gastronomic delights, and the quintessential laid-back Mediterranean atmosphere that dominates the south of France. Throw in a pedestrian-only island surrounded by crystal waters and flocks of flamingos chilling on ancient salt marshes, and you've got a summertime destination that won't disappoint. 

Hyères enjoys a microclimate of Mediterranean sun and mild, pleasant winters that nurtures a diverse range of flowers, plants, and trees including eucalyptus, orange, and mimosa. Palm trees, around 7,000 of them, earned Hyères its moniker as the "city of palm trees." It's the perfect weather for meandering along the streets of the Old Town, a silent witness to 2,400 years of history where 4th-century Greek settlers yielded to a Roman colony before becoming an 11th-century stronghold and fortress. Announced by the arched 14th-century gate Porte Massillon, the Old Town's narrow streets unveil pastel-colored buildings, a bustling main square, and an array of medieval landmarks such as the Knights Templar Tower (now an exhibition space), an ancient renovated stone wash house, Saint Paul Collegiate Church, and the Castel Sainte Claire, among others. 

The beaches and islands around Hyères

A steep walk through stony paths up Castéou Hill takes you to the remains of the former Provence stronghold Chateau d'Hyères. The 13th-century castle lies in ruin by order of Louis XIII, who had it destroyed to deter rebellion, but the views from here are worth the climb. Make a detour to Villa Noailles and its gardens, a free admission contemporary art center housed within a 1923-designed Art Deco villa and host to the annual International Festival of Fashion, Photography and Accessories. Though neighboring Nice earned the title of the "Winter Resort City of the Riviera" from UNESCO, Hyères, too, was a sought-after winter destination for aristocrats and royalty — Queen Victoria famously visited Hyères in the late 19th century — as well as writers (Edith Wharton, F. Scott Fitzgerald, and Leo Tolstoy) and artists (Salvador Dali and Pablo Picasso). 

Among its attractions, Hyères most famous draw is its beaches. The Giens peninsula, connected to the mainland by a sand bar, offers hiking trails, coves, and beaches like La Madrague and L'Almanarre for snorkeling, kite surfing, or kayaking. From here, a ferry can take you to a trio of islands known as the Golden Isles: Port-Cros, Le Levant, and Porquerolles. A 15-minute ferry ride from Hyères, you'll find Porquerolles' car-free streets, hidden coves, picturesque picnic spots, and the island's stunning beaches. Bikes can be rented at the port. Port-Cros, one hour away from Hyères by ferry, draws hikers to its shores with its rugged trails and wildlife fitting to its national park designation. Meanwhile, Le Levant's visitor-accessible beach is dedicated to naturists; although the majority of the island is a military area. Book ferry tickets in advance via the TLV-TVM website.

Visit Hyères' salt marshes and flamingos

South of Hyères are the famed salt marshes — two wetlands comprising the old salt marsh and the Pesquier marsh. Up until 1995, the 550-hectare marshes were used for salt production and harvesting. Today, a one-mile path cuts across the marsh for visitors, hikers, bird-watchers, and nature lovers to take in and explore the beauty of the salt flats. Have your cameras ready to snap photos of not only the famous pink flamingos, but any of the 200-or-so species of birds that dot the area. Guided bird tours and nature walks are organized year round. 

Truth be told, Hyères is a year-round destination, with the changing of seasons offering activities and events suited to the weather. Summer is of course the best time to take advantage of Hyères' islands, beaches, outdoor festivals, and markets. The salt marshes, and particularly the pink flamingos, are at their most photogenic in the spring, as well as the gardens around the city that start to erupt with colors and blooms. As the weather cools down in autumn, tour the numerous vineyards around the region or favor trail walking around the islands without the crowds. Winter brings Christmas markets with Provençal charm to the town center — France is, after all, one of the three countries with the best Christmas traditions to explore. Toulon-Hyères Airport is the closest airport to Hyères, and a quick 12-minute car or taxi ride from the city. Otherwise, the bus line 63 from the airport deposits you downtown in less than 15 minutes. 

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